May 27, 2004 Murano

Our last full Day in Venice and Italy. Sarah and I got up early to get pastys and brought them back to the apartment.

We left at 10 and walked to San Marco (couldn't talk the kids back into a vaporetto) and took the #42 vaporetto to Murano.
DO NOT TAKE THIS BOAT TO MURANO. You sit far below, can hardly see out and it's nauseating that low and it stops
EVERYWHERE.

It took us an hour an a half to get to Murano. It was not a pleasant ride. Did I mention my kids argued the entire hour and a half?

We did get to pass an enormous Princess Cruise ship. The size of it was unbelievable. Sarah was convinced there was an ice rink on it and wanted to be there. They both thought a cruise would be a good idea. Yea sure, no problem.

Finally we got off the boat and went to some glass factories to watch the glass blowing. Isaac especially enjoyed watching them make the glass vases. He could have stayed there all day, watching. I kind of wish we had gone on one of the tour boats because we didn't get to see the infamous horse demonstration which I think the kids would have enjoyed..

After the demonstrations we walked along, enjoying the scenery and shops. Sarah bought a tiny little flamingo and Isaac bought a larger dolphin.

We stopped to eat at a café along the canal. Della Marow. I mention it's name in order to suggest you eat elsewhere. This was our worst meal in Italy.

I had spaghetti with garlic oil and hot peppers that was actually pretty good. But Sarah ordered penne with meat sauce and Isaac had spaghetti with meat sauce. They bought Isaac and me the same spaghetti with hot peppers. The waiter was quite insistent that we ordered the same thing. Hmm, I'm pretty sure that what I ordered sounds nothing like "ragoo".

Finally the waiter agreed to take it away and bring Isaac what he ordered.

In the meantime we see pools of congealed grease on Sarah's dish. She can't eat it. I taste it and it was truly awful. Worse than a tavern (sloppy joe) at a midwestern church supper.

Then the waiter brings Isaac spaghetti and he tastes it and begs for water because it is so spicy. It's got the same green peppers as was on mine. The pasta is cold. The spaghetti is spicy hot. We are quite certain that all the waiter did was take Isaac's plate with the spicy spaghetti and dump that nasty meat sauce over it.

So I'm the only one that ate my lunch. Usually when we don't finish our plate the waiter notices and looks hurt and we feel guilty. This time we hope he asks "You no like?" But of course he doesn't.

I only had 1/2 hour left on our 24 hour vaporetto tickets so we decided to go back after lunch. I had hoped to visit some other island but the kids have a low tolerance for time on vaporettos.

This time we took the #5 back to San Marco. It's a straight trip, no stops. This is the boat to take.

Everyone is a bit irritable so we decided to go back and rest. Of course this is the time we get lost. I know the joys of getting lost in Venice have been extolled everywhere, but when you are hot, tired, had a lousy lunch and are with irritable and fighting teenage siblings, trust me, there is nothing charming about being lost in Venice.

The good thing is that it is hard to stay lost for long in Venice. We managed to find a familiar square and get back to our apartment.

After a rest, I was regretting not seeing the inside of San Marco and we still had gifts to buy. Sarah agreed to come along.

We shopped along the Rialto Bridge, completing our list. By the time we got to San Marco it was closed at 5:30.

Oh well. We were tired so I thought we should have an expensive drink at one of the cafes on the square with an orchestra. Sarah had an 8.50 E cioccolata and I had a 15 E café with Kailua.

Ah, but the way they brought it out--beautiful china with a delicate pink rose pattern on a silver tray, Sarah had a little pitcher of milk and one of chocolate to pour into her cup. It also came with a carafe of ice water.

We could see the basilica and watch people, sipping our expensive drinks. We even saw one hapless couple sit down with their ice cream cones and be politely shooed away by the waiter. It must have been one of the waiter's birthday and the orchestra played happy birthday. Sarah said she could get used to being rich. Needless to say, we don't live like this at home. Well if this trip motivates my kids to work hard and be successful to live this way, this is a good thing. Hey, not that I don't work hard!

Anyway the bill came and I was expecting a high cover charge but how about 8.90 e "musica supplimenti?" 32 E for coffee and hot chocolate. Sitting with your daughter in St Mark's square? Priceless. Besides, we leave tomorrow and I need to unload some euro.

Sarah and I got a little lost again on the way back and happened upon a campo that was a little neighborhood with little children playing on plastic Little Tyke playground toys and old ladies sitting on benches talking. We found a place where the real people live!

We were so beat when we got back (remember those four flights of steps!) nobody wanted to think about dinner. I wasn't even hungry but the kids didn't really have lunch.

About 8:15 we figured we'd better eat. We stopped at a window with take away pizza and calzone, but there wasn't anything that appealed to the kids so we kept walking.

Not far from our apartment is a Chinese restaurant recommended in Chow Venice, "La Perla de Oriente." Chinese food in Italy? Why not?

It's a lovely little place; pink napkins folded prettily, pretty pink china. Sarah and I had spring rolls that were the best restaurant rolls we've ever had (we make these at home and think ours are the best). I had hot and sour soup, okay, but I've had better.

The kids had stir fried noodles that were served first in the manner of a pasta primo. Then I had sweet and sour pork that was just excellent, Isaac had fried prawns in the best lightly crispy batter and Sarah had a wonderfully tender lemon chicken. This is one of the best Chinese Restaurants we've ever been to. With 1/2 liter of house wine, coke and water, coperto and 12% servizo 39 E total. It was a nice end to our trip